Men's clothes are usually bigger than women's.
So any reconstruction that involves converting a man's top to fit a woman would need to be made smaller.
Specifically, narrower in three areas:
- trunk (the upper body)
The only exception is the boob area. Most men don't have boobs, so they're usually made with straight squares of materials which skim over their chest, without calling attention to anything in the bust area. Men's shirts are shapeless in the front. Women's shirts, on the other hand, tend to have a dart or pleat under the bust to create that curve. Anyway, we'll need darts here to accommodate for those curves if you are sewing for a female silhouette.
It will be easier to put in darts before you narrow the trunk.
Here's how to reconstruct that man's shirt to fit a woman!
1) Narrow the shoulder-to-shoulder width
2) Put darts under the bust so that shirt will curve over boobs
3) Narrow the sleeves and trunk of the shirt
Please read all instructions first :)
1) NARROW THE SHOULDERS
You'll have a hole at the armpit because the hole of the sleeve is smaller than the armhole of the shirt. Just try to pin together the sleeve and the shirt as much as possible to keep this hole small.
2) CREATE DARTS
If you notice the dart extends onto a shirt pocket, either start the dart below the pocket, or remove the pocket first.
a) The horizontal width from the top of the dart to the side of the shirt.
b) The length down the side of the shirt from the armhole to the horizontal line I drew with step A.
c) The length down the side of the shirt from the armhole to the end of the dart.
As you can see, I got a) 17cm b) 5cm c) 23cm
Use these measurements to draw an identical dart on the other side of your shirt.
3) NARROW THE TRUNK AND THE SLEEVES
You can hem up the back shirt if you want the lengths of the shirt to match. I tuck in my shirts so I don't bother. You can also cut the sleeves and resew them if they're too long. Or make winter-y shirts into summer ones by making them short-sleeves. Do this before narrowing the sleeves. Go to the second-hand shop and buy lots of cheap men's shirts! Or even plus-size shirts. If you find a really, really big shirt (longer than mid-thigh length) you could re-make it into a shirt dress.You can double your work wardrobe in a weekend- once you do a shirt it's easy to just re-tailor several shirts in the same way.
|Geoffrey Beene shirt|
Lastly, if you want to just make a man's shirt smaller, for a man, just follow the instructions for part 1 and part 3- narrowing the shoulders, trunk and sleeves.
**EDIT: When making the shirt for a guy, don't curve in the trunk unless you're after the fitted look, which is also fairly vogue these days.
Please credit JLTFK when re-posting this tutorial :)
What do you think?
Was the tutorial easy to understand?
Do you have another way of tailoring your shirts?